Beginning To Head South

Once again we had a lovely several days with our friends, Andrew and Carol Iles (and their wonderful, big, sweet as, goofy, puppy, Peggy) at Kingfisher Park Birdwatcher’s Lodge. I could easily stay there for weeks, or months. There is a vibe to that place not to be found anywhere else. Of course there are other awesome places with good vibes, but KP is unique and I absolutely love it. I know I have gone into this before, but I do. I am so grateful for this place and these friends. So grateful. We did have to go, but I will never completely leave it as it lives in my heart.

The road in...  Kingfisher Park Lodge is at the end... I love how I feel going down this road to that place.

Brekkie on the verandah

The back side of the lodge

The rainforest front yard... Love...

Yes, it was time to move on. We decided to head south down the tablelands. We had never been to Ravenshoe (pronounced Ravens hoe, NOT Raven shoe as I kept referring to it). It’s the highest town in Queensland. We had a look at the town and a nibble at the bakery and then drove on to a sweet little caravan park in Mt. Garnet. It even had working wifi, which is all but unheard of in caravan parks in Oz. There were a beautiful group of Pied Currawongs that hung around the park. Lovely birds, but I did not take any photos. There were also Pied Butcherbirds and Magpies. It was a very pied place!
         

A real tourist selfie

I did grab a few photos of a Spangled Drongo earlier in the day in Mt. Molloy. It is a bird I tend to overlook. They are fairly common and if you don’t really “look” at it, it is just a “blackbird.” But through your bins in the sun, it is black-blue and red eyed gorgeousness. And that cool tail? I love me some Spangled Drongos. And it must be said that it has one of the best bird names ever.
         

Spangled Drongo amazingness

We left the mountains and drove over to the coast, then south to Crystal Creek caravan park, one of our favorites. We stopped briefly in Tully so that I could climb the Golden Gumboot in the sunshine (it almost always rains there… hence the gumboot being the symbol of the town). I also used the Gent’s room there and saw a dispenser featuring the wisdom of "Condoman!" I had not seen, nor heard, of Condoman. Which if you think about it, is really written as if it’s “Condo man.” Not a very tough sounding superhero… CONDO MAN! He can sell you an apartment faster than a speeding bullet!

I've got to climb the boot. I just do.

"Don't be shame be game." I don't even know what that means.

And then we thought we’d grab a quick afternoon snack and ended up having insanely delicious prawns (and some chips) in Ingham. Seriously as good as I have ever had (and I have had some excellent, fresh, local shrimp). So our snack became our main meal of the day.

Fresh, local, insanely yums!

We are heading south toward more birding. I don’t like to talk a lot about exactly what we’re doing until it’s done. I reckon I feel like it’s tempting fate or something (not that I am superstitious- touch wood). For the next few days though, we are just traveling along and taking our time. I am so grateful.

Peace. Love. Birds.

Golden-shouldered Parrots and More

Mr. Golden-shouldered Parrot

Anne Collins, our dear friend and advisor, has been an amazing resource of birding, accommodation, sights and other knowledge during our travels. When we were planning the last couple of months of this trip we were thinking about a lot of things and Golden-shouldered Parrots were close to the top of the list. Anne had suggested that if we decided to pursue them, we should get in contact with David Mead at Great Northern Tours. She had gone up there with him last year and had a wonderful time. So that’s what we did! And I too could not recommend him more highly. I am so grateful that we met him and his lovely wife, Janet.

We arrived at their home Tuesday arvo and David had us set Troopi up in his beautiful yard beside his garage. We plugged her in, popped the top and we were sorted. After a quiet night, we headed off the next morning in his Landcruiser toward Artemis Station.

On the way out, we stopped at Laura, QLD on the off chance that Black-throated Finch were there. He had seen a few last year, and thought it was worth a look. It was. We walked maybe 100 meters along a creek and there were two finches in the pandanus right in front of us and they had Black-throats! I looked first with my bins and then grabbed two quick recording shots as they flew off. First lifer of our trip, sweet! Grateful! Thank you, David!
   

Black-throated Finches

We headed on up the unsealed road to Artemis Station and had a quick look around. We got our second life bird of the day, Black-backed Butcherbird, in several spots. Then we set up camp at the station. We had their camping area to ourselves and it was lovely and peaceful.

       

Black-backed Butcherbird

We met Sue Shephard, truly THE Golden-shouldered Parrot Lady. It’s her place and in a way, they really are “her” birds. She and David are good friends and later that afternoon, she took us out to an active nest she had located a few weeks before. I saw GSP chicks! It was cuteness overload. They had color on their feathers and all (she has a tiny light on a “wand” that she can peek into the nests with). I was so grateful to see these little treasures. Just… damn.
         
The Golden-shouldered Parrot nests in termite mounds. There are three kinds. Bulbous, which are rounded and like big blobs. Then there are Magnetic, which are angular and aligned north to south to minimize the exposure to the sun. And lastly there are Conical, the “witch hat” shaped ones and they are the only kind in which the parrots nest.

An old nest site.

The GSP parents were not around that evening and we retired back at the station to a nice supper (David was feeding us) and then an early night to sleep. Lynn and I had never slept on “stretchers,” but the cots were pretty comfortable. I slept well, though fitfully, as I was ridiculously excited about the morning’s possibilities. I first awoke at 10:30pm, thank heavens I went back to sleep.

Lynn enjoying the warm arvo sun. The weather was excellent.

The tent in which we slept on stretchers for the first time.

Our front yard view.

The next morning we were out at the nest area at dawn. We positioned ourselves on little camp chairs away from, but in view of the nest. And we waited, and waited. After about 45 minutes mom and dad flew into a tree above the nest mound. I gasped, “There they are!” They appeared to have full crops. We watched these two gorgeous parrots on that branch for the next thirty minutes or so (as I took way too many photos). Then the male dropped down toward the nest mound immediately followed by the female who went straight into the hole. The male perched atop the mound making for insanely wondrous views. Eventually he too dropped down and slipped quickly into the hole. We chose that time to quietly walk back to the vehicle. I am so grateful to have seen these magnificent endangered parrots. Such a thrill that was.

Brace yourselves, lots of photos of GSPs are coming...

A literal OMG moment(s). They had flown in and were sitting there.

As he left, he basically disappeared down through the leaves.

She, however, flew straight off to the nest mound and into the hole.

And he perched on top of the nest mound... OMG again.

Dropping down to the nest hole.

Going in...

   

Joyous Golden-shouldered Parrot Lifer Selfie... David Mead, Lynn and me.

On the way back to the station, we stopped and found the “White-eared” Masked Finches, a distinct sub-species and perhaps one day, a split.
       

"White-eared" Masked Finch

We packed up the camp and decided that, since we had hit all our targets, we’d head back a day early to David and Janet’s. And that’s what we did. Back in Cooktown, we had wonderful take-away Barra and Chips as our Lifer supper. After dinner, David discovered on eBird that a friend of his had seen Large-tailed Nightjars on a road just five minutes from the house. So we weren’t done yet.

The next morning we were parked on that road before 6am. We walked a couple hundred meters up the road without seeing or hearing the birds. On the way back down, right beside me, a Large-tailed Nightjar flew up and looped around (it was feeding on insects I think). Then it flew back over us to land on the road ahead twice. We had excellent views. That was the last of my Australian nightjars (Lynn still needs White-throated).

I am so very grateful! Thank you David, for a wonderful few days with a perfect grand finale!

RB AUS Life List: 663
Lynn AUS Life List: 644
Couple’s AUS Year List: 626
Peace. Love. Birds.

Hanging Out At Kingfisher Park

For a few (often soggy) days, we’ve been hanging out here at Kingfisher Park Birdwatcher’s Lodge. It is a place that I love. Lynn has had some much needed down time and I know she has been enjoying that. I have been getting out and doing some birding and wandering in the mornings and I need to do that, or I go even more crazy than I already am. I am grateful when we can reach balances. That is sometimes difficult in this journey.

Carol and Andrew Iles, the owners of KP are delightful. These are funny, fun, smart, caring and very knowledgeable people, who I consider friends. I know that Andrew would hate for me to tell people how nice he is, but he will probably never read this so I am safe. We will be heading north tomorrow to areas again where there will probably be no internet or mobile signal, and I wanted to post some photos from our few days here. I sometimes find myself just looking, more than photographing, and that is both good and bad. I do want to share the visuals with y’all, so I try and remember to take some pictures, but sometimes I forget. Anyway here are some photos…
 

I was walking up Mt. Lewis when this little bit of gorgeousness hopped up beside me. I love me some Double-eyed Fig-parrots!

Looking out off Mt. Lewis.

The road up the mountain.

The old man on the mountain... rainforest selfie.

Spotted Catbird on the mountain.

Spectacled Monarch

Another of the insanely cute Double-eyed Fig-parrot

Another walk not far down the road from KP

Beautiful but filled with mozzies!

Little Shrike-thrush is not bothered by mozzies.

At the end down there is where we saw Fig-parrots last year and to my right and behind me is where we saw White-browed Crakes last year. It was a bit quiet this year, but lush, green and lovely.

The cane fields next door viewed from the creek.

I love this track.

There was a family of Brown Quail, but I only seem to have photographed one.

One of the family of Brown Quail

Keeping it real. Ugh. As I’ve mentioned in several previous entries, things aren’t always all shits and giggles out here. Life is complex, more complex than life birds and selfies. I am grateful, but. There’s a sentence for you. Years ago I read somewhere that when you add “but” to a sentence, you are negating everything that came before it. But… I AM grateful. I am also struggling every day (particularly during that deadly awake time just before actually getting up) with depression and anxiety. Yes, as I am experiencing these magnificent areas, there is often a massive, metaphorical cloud above me. Part of this is my natural tendency toward anxiety and depression, but I am also struggling with the fact that we have to return to the US in September and we have no settled plan for what we’re going to do, or how we are going to do it. No, I am not sure what the future holds and I am not good with that kind of not knowing. But… (I cannot not use that word) as John Lennon said, “It will all be okay in the end, and if it’s not okay, then it’s not the end.” I am grateful for those words and for that thought.

Peace. Love. Birds. Truth.

Back In FNQ

We took about ten days to travel from the Centre across Queensland to the coast and up here.

Not exact, but pretty close...

Troopi in the palms at Crystal Creek, one of our very favorite caravan parks and where we picked up Australian Swiftlet for the year list that morning.

I am now sitting in one of my favorite places in the world. I am writing this from Kingfisher Park Birdwatcher’s Lodge in Far North Queensland, or FNQ as it is called. I truly love this place. And the people who run it are wonderful. Andrew who purports to be a grumpy guy, but is a very nice, as well as a very funny man, and his lovely wife Carol who is also very nice and a lot of fun. We spent a week here last September/October Kingfisher Part One (and be sure to read the other parts too) and LOVED it and got a ton of incredible birds! This time it is more of just a visit and chill for a bit. This place relaxes me and I am grateful.

We did get to do the Lifer Selfie thing Wednesday morning. We were in Cairns to go to Cattana Wetlands to look for Pale-vented Bush-hen. It is one of the few birds up here that would be both a lifer and a year list bird for us and they had been reported there on eBird. Tuesday arvo we checked into an insanely crowded caravan park in northern Cairns and then drove over to the wetlands.
     
We walked in and in less than 15 minutes we were listening to a Bush-hen. We then spent over two hours listening to it (I even recorded a little of it). It was calling from the dense reeds right in front of us (seriously less than three meters away). And then… I finally glimpsed it. There was movement in the reeds, a little color and a “rail-shape” from where the call had been coming. Lynn worked her way into where I had been standing and a bit later she got a little better glimpse of the bird. Heard and seen, that is a tick! Although not what I would call the most “satisfying” looks, I am 100% satisfied that we got the bird. I am grateful.
     

Where the Bush-hen was...

Still hoping for a better look, Lynn and I were back there just before sunrise Wednesday morning. It was still there, same call, same place. This time after an hour or so, I worked my way a meter or two into the reeds. As I did this, the Pale-vented Bush-hen flushed and flew almost over Lynn’s head, giving her great views, although not so much from my vantage point. Regardless, I am very grateful. We got a tough bird.

Early morning listening, and watching, and waiting, and looking, and listening, etc and so on

Over Lynn's left shoulder, deep into the reeds behind that palm-looking thing is where the bird was.

So I am here at Kingfisher. We just had a wonderful meal at the pub. I had Lifer Pie in the form of a Brownie with ice cream and I am a happy boy and I am grateful.

Peace. Love. Birds.

RB Life List: 659
Lynn Life List: 640
Couple’s Year List: 622

People Lifer

John Scott

I tend to be an extrovert. However I can also be sort of a curmudgeonly, not overly friendly kind of guy when I am really focused, i.e. birding (or when I have not had my coffee). I am also not necessarily the most social fellow at caravan parks. The conversations there tend to be more sports and alcohol based, and as we know, I am into neither. I am not rude, but it doesn’t take long to get that I am not your typical man’s-man kind of man, and the footy chit-chat is going nowhere. And honestly, I am grateful that I am not.

Particularly in the birding world, I have made some life-long friends out here and I am truly grateful. These are “People Lifers.” Y’all know who y’all are. These are wonderful, funny, smart people with whom I do, and will continue to, keep in touch. Yes, and even a few non-birdy types are in there. My heart has countless rooms and I love it when someone slips into one of them. They fill a space that I did not know was empty, yet was all ready for their arrival. I am grateful for each and every one!

The other day at the Barkly Homestead campground a skinny, little, older guy in a big hat wandered over to say Howdy. I was not expecting to be chatting long. He looked like a real character. I like the “idea” of characters. God knows I am pretty much a character. Many of my friends could probably be described as characters. But the characters that one meets on the road can be a bit over done. Rather than just celebrating their uniqueness, sometimes they have become (in my opinion) a parody. They have become a caricature of their character. They have lost themselves performing this projection of their perception of themselves.

We had seen his Troopy parked behind us in the next row. It was a gorgeous 30 year old pop-top in that beautiful beige Troopcarrier color. It was a very cool vehicle. He had a personal license plate that read, Trakka. He introduced himself as Trakka, but quickly said, “John” as we shook hands. I liked him instantly. He was a genuine character, in his 70’s and traveling Oz alone in that old Troopy. We talked and I thoroughly enjoyed his company.

John and me at Barkly Homestead, NT.

When I am talking with someone, I always try and make sure that I am really listening. That sounds simple, but sometimes during a conversation we are just waiting for our “turn” to talk. That is not really listening. John listened. He had a way of looking directly at me as I spoke, so that I knew he was listening and he understood. He would laugh easily and genuinely. He had a genuine “twinkle” in his eye. I find myself reusing the word “genuine” because he was one of the most genuine people I have ever met. He was as dinky-di an Aussie as one could be. He used the phrase “fair dinkum” naturally. He referred to some young backpacker girls as “Sheilas” without a trace of disrespect in his voice, or in the use of the word. I genuinely enjoyed him.

John will never read this blog. He has no computer, and get this, he has no mobile phone! Imagine traveling across the country alone without a mobile phone. He reads books. He sends his granddaughter postcards (as do I). He collects stuff. He travels from his home in the Gippsland area of Victoria north every year in the winter. All by himself. I like him and I admire him. John Scott, you are my friend and I am grateful. You are indeed a People Lifer for me. I have his landline number. I will call him sometime and I will go and visit. As I said, he is my friend. I am grateful.

Peace. Love. Birds.

Ground Cuckoo-shrike Finally

All birds are wonderful. All life birds are special, because they are lifers if nothing else. But there are birds that are a bit more special. Birds that you have pursued, and looked for, and hoped for, and scanned the trees and fields for, over and over again. And when you do finally see them it is wondrous! I am sure this can be explained to non-birders by comparing it to something that they are passionate about. As a lovely friend once said, “Birding is a noble passion.” I agree with all my heart. A passion it is and my passion was rewarded Tuesday morning when Lynn and I finally beheld the Ground Cuckoo-shrike. It was a pair of them actually, and one perched up and let us marvel at its beauty. We drank in the magnificent monochromatic elegance of its black, grey and white. Ground Cuckoo Shrike, we had been looking for you for so long. Massive, huge grateful!

 

Ground Cuckoo-shrike... Love

We had first really hoped to find them up around Deniliquin in NSW (twice), but we had no joy. We had also hoped and watched for them in several other spots where they are seen, but they were never around. Then on the way down to Alice Springs almost three weeks ago, our friend Robert saw some near Barrow Creek on the Stuart Highway. We drove through the following day and looked, but it was midday and nothing was about and we needed to get down to Alice.

We looked for them everywhere down around Alice and out to Uluru (twice) and down to Coober Pedy and back, but none were around. So as we left the Centre to begin our sweep back north and east, we knew we really had to give the Barrow Creek area a good going over. It is a known hotspot for them and Robert had seen them there the other week. We stayed Sunday night in Ti Tree (the closest good campground) and then spent all day Monday up around Barrow Creek looking and listening, but we saw neither hide nor feather of them and went back to Ti Tree for the night.

Tuesday morning began again at the crack of dark. It was also only about 6 C (43 F). That’s chilly in Troopi. We packed up and headed up to Barrow Creek again. I was in a grumpy mood as we did not get out as early as I wanted and I knew that if we did not find the bird that morning, we would still need to push on to Tennant Creek. We had to begin on our way toward FNQ and Cape York. We stopped once on the way up (we had stopped repeatedly the day before) then pressed on to the area where Robert had seen them.

We parked Troopi just off the highway about a kilometer north of Barrow Creek and began to look and listen. The road noise was annoying and exacerbating my grumpiness. It was the Tuesday after another Aussie “long weekend” and the Stuart Highway had a fairly steady stream of vehicles rumbling and roaring along. We birded along the west side of the road for about ten minutes, but I thought it looked better on the east side. There were a few large Bloodwoods over there and good open ‘soft grass’ areas. We crossed the road and walked along about 100 meters (roughly where a Little Buttonquail had run damn near across our feet the day before) and… I heard the call! Yes, they are loud enough that even I can hear them. Two Ground Cuckoo-shrikes flew in to the dead tree next to a big Bloodwood. I was so damn grateful and filled with joy. Here are a lot of photos....

         

Ground Cuckoo-shrike, one of the only three legged birds in Australia.

I am writing this on a lazy, slow morning in Tennant Creek, NT. We will leave here in an hour or so and begin going east. The adventure continues.

Peace. Love. Birds.

RB Life List: 658
Lynn Life List: 639
Couple’s Year List: 620

Grasswrens Are Hard

First the stuff that wasn’t particulary fun. Troopi’s original pop-top canvas was woebegone to say the least (or most, depending upon how you look at it). It leaked, and the windows did not fit or close properly. We found a guy who could replace it last week in Alice. He was a very nice fellow and when things took longer than expected, he let us park-up by his shop (he works from home). We had a shower and bath right behind Troopi, basically a free ensuite powered campsite. Very cool. But on our way for the final installation of the pop-top, our fridge quit running on DC power. Our new friend knew a guy. So we had an auto-electrician on it within the hour and fixed it! Crossed fingers as always, but I am very grateful!

Then Friday morning with our new roof in place, a fully working fridge and a new fuel filter and oil change (I did not mention that) we decided to drive out once more to Uluru. We are becoming familiar with the world famous Red Centre of Oz.

I made her do it (as much as I can make her do anything) but she was nice enough to pose with the sign.

This time we had much better (albeit much colder) weather. We were in pursuit of the Striated “Sandhill” Grasswren. We arrived in the park about 3:30pm, paid our $25 each cover charge, and gave the Grasswren a try for about an hour. They are historically seen to the west of the Sunset Viewing Car Park, but they were not around that evening.

   

Our gorgeous view of Kata Tjunta further to the west... what a backdrop to birding!

After a night in the very crowded, but really not bad, Ayer’s Rock Resort Caravan Park, we hit the Sunset Viewing area just on sunrise. We looked across the road west of the car park. And we walked, and walked and listened (well Lynn listened, I have rock and roll ears and pretty intense tinnitus). And then we walked some more and she listened some more.

A completely unposed photo of Lynn listening for the Striated Grasswren. Not a bad moment to capture... spinifex, Uluru and Lynn (this was before we found them).

After over three hours Lynn finally said, “If that’s not the tape. I hear it.” It was not the tape. Then… there it was. A Striated “Sandhill” Grasswren perched up on a dead limb for perhaps three seconds before it dropped down, disappearing into the spinifex. I got sweet looks before grabbing some quick (out of focus) recording shots, but I was damn grateful for those. 

Striated "Sandhill" Grasswren!

             

The Lifer Selfie with Uluru in the back. Awesomeness.

In my opinion, grasswrens are hard. We have now seen over half of them: Western, Black, Kalkadoon, Carpentarian, Dusky and now Striated. We have had some wonderful help finding a few, but this one was Lynn and me. We did have our indispensible Dolby/Clark book, and we had Mark Carter’s recommendation that we get our butts out there, but WE found them. Lynn’s ears heard and then found us another lifer. I did get to say, “That’s IT!” when I saw it jump up on the branch. Yes, I am very grateful!

Peace. Love. Birds.

RB Life List: 657
Lynn Life List: 638
Couple’s Year List: 619

Our Travels Since February

I last posted maps of our travels on the blog on 28 February. We were in southwest Western Australia at the time. Since then we have done some amazing traveling and seen some wondrous birds and sights. We stayed longer than we originally intended in some places and skipped some places we had intended to visit. This map approximates our route, but does not include Exmouth, the Mitchell Plateau and Kakadu NP to mention a few. Google maps have their limits and I thought I would give an idea of our general route rather than getting all the specifics right.

March, April, May and starting into June...

Troopi has done us more than proud. We’re back in Alice and tomorrow she gets her pop top canvas replaced with a waterproof pvc cloth. We have needed this badly for a while. We “worked around” the old stuff with a tarp, but eventually that just would not do. She needs this and so do we.

Troopi crossing King Edward River

It’s been an amazing journey. We have made new friends, some of which I reckon will remain life-long, close friends. We have also met very many friendly, helpful, wonderful people and only two complete assholes. That, my friends, is a pretty good average for over nine months of traveling and lots of people. I am grateful.

We have not kept track of the mileage, but it is a lot. We’ve now traveled all the way “around” Australia and down through most of the middle. I am completely comfortable driving on the left. And we have quite a lot more travel ahead of us until we stop in mid-August.

We have been through some changes. Our increased activity levels has tanned our skin and slimmed our bodies a bit. Lynn has discovered her ability to rock climb hillsides when there’s a grasswren on the other side. She was amazing. I am grateful.

We’ve ridden down rivers containing crocodiles in a little “tinny” to get cracking views of Chestnut Rails. We’ve seen Eclectus Parrots getting jiggy with it by their nest hole. We’ve climbed through mangroves, mud, sand, spinifex, briars, speargrass and boulders to get to birds. And don’t even start with the flies. We’ve driven up closed roads and through rivers, and we beheld the Black Grasswren. Last spring, we pushed Matilda (Troopi’s forerunner) up Eungella, survived it, and we got that honeyeater. We now have seen all 75 Honeyeaters in Oz (I.O.C. list). We have been SO fortunate in the birds we have found. I have stood and stared at a pair of Grey Falcons with my heart in my throat and my eyes wetting with joy. I am grateful.

One of the genuine, OMG moments of my life.

Lynn has truly become a birder. She is our ears (I cannot hear the high frequencies). She has found so many birds for us! She was never into listing, but began a list to keep track of what she had seen. She’s now at 636 Australian birds and she's not done yet. I am very grateful.

     

Listening...

I have talked about “keeping it real” and I have written a bit about my anxiety and OCD, etc. It’s not all easy. It is not all smiles and fun. There is a lot of stress in being in such close proximity 24/7, but we’ve been making it work (most of the time). And I am grateful that we are not crazier than we are, very grateful.

I love these two photos, especially together. They capture what I think is the best of us. This was at the Roebuck Plains Roadhouse by Broome, WA.

So, have a look back through the blog entries and catch up with what-all we’ve seen and done. I read back over them myself and I am amazed. And I was there! And I am so very grateful.


Peace. Love. Birds.

Coober Pedy, South Australia

It is a funny name, Coober Pedy. Many Americans have heard of it. It is one the places in Oz where some people live underground. It is the opal capital of Australia (and whatever happened to the Buick Opal? Whatever happened to Buick period?). Coober is a rocky pile of rocks and gravel with a lot of holes. Its birds have been very, very good to Lynn and me. I am grateful for Coober Pedy! (By the way, Pedy rhymes with “needy,” not “ready”). Basically we came here with two targets in mind, Gibberbird and Chestnut-breasted Whiteface.

We arrived in town Thursday about 4pm after a day of driving in a lot of rain. We were tired and ready to settle in, but there was a birding spot only two minutes from our accommodation. It was a place where our friend, Anne Collins had seen Gibberbird a while ago. We parked Troopi on the side of the unsealed Oodnadatta Rd. and walked out into the rocky, Martian-like landscape. About 100 meters in, we heard the call and soon, a male Gibberbird was sitting up in front of us. Sweet! We got awesome looks and some photos too! I am very grateful.

     

Gibberbird!

Lookin' atcha!

Friday morning just past 7am (sunrise is at 7:17am) we were driving the 12 kilometers south to the “Monument.” This is a well know spot for birding as well as a free camp. There were a few campers around, but mostly it was quiet. So were the birds. I reckon it was early. Robert showed up for a little while and then went back to town to look for the Gibberbird. Lynn and I kept at it and then… I saw a Pied Honeyeater! I think I said in a bit of disbelief, “That’s a Pied Honeyeater!” I was not expecting them, but I was delighted to see them (it turned out there were three). It had been a bird that Lynn and I had kept missing. We had hoped to possibly get it on our way back north, but here it was. AND with that bird, we have now seen all the Honeyeaters in Australia! Yes we have! I am very grateful!
     

Mr and Ms Pied Honeyeater

Then we worked our way further from the monument, still looking for the Chestnut-breasted. We were using Lynn’s ears to their maximum ability and she thought she heard it. Then, looking through her bins, she said magical words, “That’s the bird!” And friends, it was. A lovely Chestnut-breasted Whiteface perched in the top of a bush. I was on it instantly as well. Sweet! We watched it, I took some photos. Then it and its friend (there were two) flew off into the brush. Grateful much? Indeed I am. We saw them three more times and once after Robert had returned, so a Lifer Selfie was indeed in order.
     

Chestnut-breasted Whiteface, first view

Robert on the Chestnut-breasted Whiteface

Lifer Selfie!

Meanwhile, in my pocket, “technology” had done what it does, which is whatever it wants to do. My app had played Cinnamon Quail-thrush all on its own. I had looked at that bird in the app, so I reckon it had been ‘open' to it. Anyway, Lynn and I were in giggly, lifer-high when she asked, “Is that a Quail-thrush under that bush?” And friends, it was. A beautiful male Cinnamon Quail-thrush, a bird we needed and had figured to get somewhere, but not necessarily there in the scrub and rocks. We also saw a female. Sweet birds and we had wonderful looks (excellent compared to our brief views of the Nullarbor version earlier this year). Sweet!

Mr. Cinnamon Quail-thrush

           

Ms Cinnamon Quail-thrush

She is swallowing a large grasshopper.

So we had gotten our targets, plus a real bonus with the Pied Honeyeater! I am stupid grateful and sitting in our accommodation in the Oasis Tourist Park writing this and having a non-alcoholic “beer.” I am celebrating four Life Birds in less than 20 hours. I think a pub meal is in order this evening. We will see. Here are a couple of photos from out there where we were birding.

 

Evidently, this is Chestnut-breasted Whiteface and Cinnamon Quail-thrush habitat. And Pied Honeyeaters can show up too!

RB Life List: 656
Lynn Life List: 636
Couple’s Year List: 617

Peace. Love. Birds.

The Red Centre And More

Uluru

We rolled down the Stuart Highway to Alice Springs. On the way we did stop at the cheapest fuel in the Territory. It is also the UFO Centre of Australia (I do not know exactly why and I did not ask). At $1.09 for diesel, I am not asking any questions.

Green Nomads

Sunday morning at first light, we went out with the Alice Springs bird guru, Mark Carter, for an incredible morning of birding. We nailed three of our target birds, two in the first hour. I reckon a lot of folks come looking for the Rufous-crowned Emu-wren and the Dusky Grasswren, so he keeps a close watch on them. We got wondrous views of both and I am very grateful! Then we moved on to look for Little Button-quail and flushed three. Lynn and I got good views of them flying, but as with the Chestnut-backed Button-quail of Chinaman Creek, there was no time for a photo. I am very grateful for the view and to be able to add another button-quail to our list.

        

Rufous-crowned Emu-wren... we now have all the Emu-wrens!

Dusky Grasswren

On Monday, Robert and I went looking for more Button-quail and we flushed another. Robert got one photo that he posted to the Crap Bird Photography Facebook page. It was just a blurry smudge (but more than I got). Then we went to the spot where he had gotten Grey Honeyeater a couple of days before. In only about ten minutes, I was looking at my third Grey Honeyeater of the year. I worked very hard for the first pair (see blog entry here: http://rbrucelivinggratitude.blogspot.com.au/2016/03/grey-honeyeater-joy.html) This bird was much easier to find and a bit more cooperative (although he did not hold still much). I am very grateful.

Grey Honeyeater. I love them.

On Tuesday, Lynn and I went out and had a look at Uluru. It is beautiful, majestic, massive and moving. We had planned to see it better the next day only to awake to dense fog and drizzling rain. Plans changed. And we have been discovering that Troopi’s old and very tired canvas must be replaced. It is leaking. But I got on the internet, and then the phone, and now next week she will have new waterproof cloth replacing her old pop-top canvas! We will come back up to Alice Springs to have that done and then we’ll be heading on again. And our girl will be much more comfortable! I am, and will, be SO grateful.

Lynn and me at Uluru the evening before the wetness took it all over.

Wild Camels

RB Life List: 652
Lynn Life List: 631
Couple’s Year List: 613

Post Script...

A few times over the months that I have been doing this blog, I have used the phrase, “keeping it real.” I do always want to be genuine. That is extremely important to me. So is affirming the positives and being grateful, and so are writing blog entries that are fun to read. These things can clash and I feel less than genuine. The smiling selfie faces are sometimes a bit forced, the “I am so very grateful” is written in reflection after the fact and well, I am occasionally not as happy as I seem to be.

I have some continuing health issues, NOTHING as bad as some of my friends and loved ones are going through, but enough to have me running at less than 100%. BUT I am massively grateful that I am in as good a shape as I am.

And all of my life I have dealt with ADD, OCD, as well as anxiety and a certain amount of depression. I have made much progress, but it is a process and I am in process. These things are exacerbated by the uncertainty of our future, and the unbelievable comfort zone smashing that we are doing out here. Were we really prepared for this adventure? No we were not. Can we “afford” it? No we cannot. Will we finish it? Yes we will. We are doing the best we can and for that, I am deeply grateful.

So, I do not write blog entries about the expensive ticket that I was wrongfully given by a cop in Alice Springs, or the pain (and fear) when my knee pops out of the joint, or the gut wrenching anxiety that comes, well, here I am writing about it. So I will shut up and just say that I AM grateful. I am grateful for where we are, who we are and who we have become. I am grateful for where we’ve been and where we’re going. I am grateful for the birds! And I am very grateful that some of you love us! We love you as well! If the selfie smile is forced at the time, from my heart it is always completely sincere.

Peace. Love. Birds.

Bonus Entry: Budgies and Stuff

BUDGIES! (More about them later).

Last Tuesday morning, after a bush-camp near Mica Creek, we tried again and were successful for the Kalkadoon Grasswren (see the blog entry before this one). On our way into the areas that we searched, we came across a rubbish pile, and in the midst of the rubbish Robert spotted “The Big Year” DVD! We could not believe it. This is a place where people sometime bird, so I reckon birders put it there. It was quite a surprise. We just left it where it was.

That afternoon, after arriving at one of the better known Carpentarian Grasswren sites, we checked the “cairn.” It has a miner’s hat for a lid and it is where a book of Carpentarian sightings is kept safe for birders to record their sightings. This is a photo of Rob and Laurie with the cairn.

Luckily, the next day, Laurie was able to leave a record of our sightings in there as well. I also took a shot of our bush-camp there. Here are the three Troopies in the bush. What a great time. Incredible birds and wonderful company, as good as it gets. I am very grateful.
         

On to Thursday morning… I have always loved the photos of hundreds, or sometimes thousands of Budgies (Budgerigars) coming into water holes. Magical! I had never seen this until Thursday morning at Barkly Homestead. Although not quite hundreds, it was a wondrous sight. The light was harsh for photos since I was shooting toward the sun, but I was mostly busy just marveling at the beauty of the spectacle. They were SO fast! Here are some photos that hopefully capture the chaotic, craziness and speed of Budgies bathing, drinking and seemingly, just playing in the water. I am so grateful.
         

The one on the lower left is drunk.

I love the calm water before they get there...

We stayed Thursday night at a very nice, and very reasonable caravan park in Tennant Creek. Friday morning began with a bit of a glitch. Troopi seemed to be listing to her left. I noticed this coming back from the amenities early this morning. As it happened, the back left tyre was partially flat. I phoned the auto club (best money I have ever spent) and they sent a guy out. He arrived about 8am and informed me that there was a tyre place just across the road. He followed me there in case the tyre did not make it. It made it. As it turned out, the rim had a crack in it. They replaced the rim and soon we were on our way. The cool thing is… that this happened in the comfort of a caravan park and across the street from a tyre place. NOT out in the bush without mobile coverage. Yes, I am very grateful. And it was only $125 total. I don’t think I have ever spent that little having anything done to a motor vehicle in Australia.

Here are a few other photos that are kind of cool and I just want to share them.
   

Beach Stone-curlew at dusk, Buffalo Creek, NT

Little Egret in breeding plumage, Buffalo Creek, NT

Spinifex Pigeon, race plumifera in Mt. Isa, NT (we saw race ferruginea in WA)

Cloncurry Ringneck, race macgillivrayi, Mt. Isa, NT

I am writing this Friday evening in a caravan park in Ti Tree, NT. Tomorrow we will be in Alice Springs for a few days. I will keep y’all posted. Sending love and gratitude as we get closer to the center.

Peace. Love. Birds.

Grey Falcons and Grasswrens

Grey Falcons!

But first, let's catch up...

Last Sunday began poorly. Lynn and I had opted out when Laurie Ross had gone off early looking for Dusky Grasswrens and then he and Robert had gotten them and were back before brekkie. I was happy for them, not so much for us. Laurie headed on east and we decided to head over to the Barkly Homestead (about two hours) in the hope, the slim hope, of Grey Falcon. Mark Carter had reported one around there about a week ago.

Just as we got well underway, the fuel system warning light came on. I am a little gun-shy of warning lights in my Troopi, but we carried on. We even stopped to have a look at a wicked-cool Thorny Devil that Robert spotted on the road.
   

Thorny Devil... cool as. It is a one-of, being the sole species of genus Moloch.

Off the road, safe and sound.

Once we arrived at Barkly, I called RACV and they put me on to a mechanic who talked me through resetting the warning light. It was probably triggered by the fast acceleration that I had done pulling onto the highway with a roadtrain coming. The light did come on just after that and the mechanic suggested that may have been the cause. Anyway, I am grateful we got it sorted.

In the meantime, Laurie showed up with a surprise. He had found a pair of Grey Falcons! The exact location is his, and I will only say “Barkly Homestead.” We looked. We saw. We rejoiced. A lot! Grey Falcon! One of the contributing factors to my becoming a birder was reading The Big Twitch by Sean Dooley. Sean had dipped on Grey Falcon in his Big Year. It was his bogie bird. Ever since I read his book, I had hoped one day that I might see one and I saw a pair of them! They are incredibly special to me and this was one of the true highlights of my birding life. Wow. Thank you, Laurie! We had a delicious Lifer-Dinner at the homestead. And I am crazy grateful.
         

Grey Falcons!

Laurie took this shot. Even his Lifer Selfies are excellent!

The next morning, we decided to tag along with Laurie to Mt. Isa to look for grasswrens. We met Robert there and we began our search for Kalkadoon Grasswren. We tried the water tank area with no luck and then did a marathon hike (rock climbing?) in the Mica Creek area, again to no avail. Seems they are one of the harder birds to find. We made a bush camp there and got a good night’s sleep. I am grateful.

At first light the next morning we were at it again. And again, we did much semi-vertical hiking. We were spread out across a couple of ridges and my phone rang. Laurie had found them! Lynn started over the ridge to try and find a way to the other side. I headed up the next ridge to look for Laurie. After an exhausting climb (it turned out he was on a different ridge, UGH!) I found Laurie and I saw the Kalkadoon Grasswren! Then I went straight back to where I could see Lynn beginning to come across on another ridge. I headed to the top of that ridge, and together we worked our way over to Laurie. She got wonderful views as well! I am so very, very grateful.
     

Kalkadoon Grasswren... Oh, hell yes. I was amazed.

Ms Kalkadoon Grasswren

We moved on to a Carpentarian Grasswren area. There was more hiking, but mostly flat land. We tried some of the known spots, but we had no joy. We moved on to the Lady Loretta area (it’s the name of a mine). We made another bush camp and then went birding. The afternoon heat had begun so we came back and rested for an hour or so. About 3:30 we went out again. After a not all that arduous hike, Robert had a bird in front of him in the spinifex. Laurie could see it from where he was and called, “GRASSWREN.” Bear in mind that Laurie is about seven feet tall (he is actually 6’3”) with excellent eyesight and he sees everything. Soon we had its little area surrounded, but it did not give up views like the Kalkadoon. Robert and Laurie both saw it before we did. Then Lynn said, “There!” And I finally had a view of the male Carpentarian Grasswren as it flew across, over and down disappearing into the spinifex. We had done it. Two very difficult grasswrens in one day. Lynn’s Fitbit was smiling at 8.25 miles. We were smiling like idiots. Yes we did it! I am so grateful.

The double grasswren Lifer Selfie at our bush camp in the, um bush. Exhausted and elated!

I am beginning the rough draft of the blog in the back of Troopi in that bush camp. Robert wants a photo (he only counts birds he photographs) and Laurie wants to get an excellent photo. Laurie’s photos are honestly amazing. He is truly one of the best I have ever seen and yet he is really just getting started. So they are going back in the morning and I will probably tag along and see if I can get another look at this sneaky little bird. If I do, fine, but we got it today! I am grateful!

Post Script… I did go along for a while with them and got some better views of the Carpentarian. I did not get a photo, but here is a back of the camera recording shot from Laurie. He got absolutely incredible photos of some other Carpentarians later, but this was one of the earlier ones that I saw. I want to thank him for his ears, eyes and research into these birds. He made this wondrous birding accomplishment possible. I am very grateful to my friend for some amazing birds.

Carpentarian Grasswren!

RB Life List: 649
Lynn Life List: 628
Couple’s Year List: 610

Peace. Love. Birds.

Top End ~ Part Five Chestnut Rail

We finally got it!

Chestnut Rail, Buffalo Creek, NT

But first... since the last blog, Lynn and I headed out to the Nourlangi Rock site in Kakadu and saw (briefly) a White-lined Honeyeater. We left there and went to Nawurlandja Lookout where we had gorgeous views of a Chestnut-quilled Rock-pigeon (and gorgeous views in general). We then went back over and walked about two thirds of the way into Gubara Pools, hoping for better views of the White-lined and we got them. I am grateful.

   

Chestnut-quilled Rock-pigeon

Where Chestnut-quilled Rock-pigeons live.

Then we drove over to the Bark Hut Roadhouse by Mary River and stayed the night. We love it there. The family who run it now are wonderful. I even did an impromptu guest set out back for maybe a dozen people. It was a blast. I have not “performed” in months and months and it felt good and I am still pretty good at it. I may very well in the coming years finally do the pub/roadhouse tour that I have thought about for ages now. We will see.

We returned to Darwin and again started the first-light searches for the Chestnut Rail. We’d spend several hours beginning at first light searching the mangrove mud banks of known Chestnut Rail spots. We had done this four or five times (six or seven times? I lost count) with no joy. I decided we should concentrate on Buffalo Creek, as it is the most famous spot for them. For the time being, Lynn had burned-out on mangroves, midgies and mozzies and did not go Thursday morning.

I met Robert by the boat ramp and we headed off south through the mangroves along the river. He and I had gone this way the evening before. We were beginning to know the “paths” through the mangroves (and the mozzies and midgies of course) very well. But we saw no Chestnut Rails. It was about 8:30am when a guy and his girlfriend came by in a small aluminum boat. I chatted to them and described the rail and they thought they’d seen two or three. They then stopped and were chatting with Robert and I yelled to him, “Ask them if they’ll take us up there.” He asked and Pat said, “Hop in!” Pat King was the gentleman who owned the little boat with a motor that continually conked out, but continually restarted. We puttered up the river as the tide dropped further, and the sun rose higher. I did not have a lot of expectations. But less than a kilometer upstream, Robert spotted a Chestnut Rail on the mudbank. YES! We were oogling it and snapping photos and it walked out into the sun! We got incredible views and some good shots. I was (am) SO grateful! We saw at least two more and it was awesome.
         

The first view was the classic, skulking rail view...

And then it got better!

This was the second rail that showed for us.

A beautiful Little Kingfisher. We saw several of these very special kingfishers along the creek

Pat is concentrating on driving the boat and Robert and I are doing Lifer Selfie for a very difficult bird.

I arranged for Pat to take Lynn and me Friday morning. I bought him a slab of beer by way of thanks. I offered petrol money, but he seemed more keen on the beer. I would gladly have paid him. Long story short, the tide was an hour higher and it took us a little while, but Lynn saw three Chestnut Rails! We heard the territorial call of a fourth, but did not see that one. I am so grateful.
   

Lynn on the front seat of Pat's boat just after seeing 3 different Chestnut Rails!

I’m writing this in Mataranka, NT. We are on our way south. It is so beautifully cool this evening. I will see if I can get this finished and posted. Sending love from the Northern Territory. The adventure continues and I am grateful!

Peace. Love. Birds.

Top End ~ Part Four

Goshawk and Fruit-doves

After her stay in the service centre, Troopi was raring to get out and do some birding. We decided to give one last go at the Yellow-rumped Mannikins that had eluded us everywhere (and most everyone else too this year) except for our friend, Laurie Ross. He had seen several only eleven days ago in the Victoria River area. We went out there. They were not there, but it is lovely and we had fun. Except when Lynn sat down very unexpectedly in the rocks of the riverbed and bruised her tailbone. Ow. I am grateful she did not injure herself more seriously.

Victoria River

Lynn at the Escarpment Walk car park... there can be Mannikins there, but not lately.

Victoria River riverbed with a lot of rocks that can bang a tailbone. There were Yellow-rumped Mannikins here just eleven days ago.

Victoria River Bridge... another good spot for Yellow-rumped Mannikins, but not now...

Next we headed for Kakadu. Stopping in Katherine we picked up a few things and mailed a birthday card to one of our granddaughters. After crossing into Kakadu (and buying our park pass) we spotted a Red Goshawk! Always an awesome bird to see! I am grateful! I shot a few photos and we left her alone.

Red Goshawk

   

After years of having nested there, the famous Mataranka Red Goshawk was just about hounded out of existence by photographers. A very small minority of “wildlife photographers” will climb trees, trespass, blast with flashes and otherwise harass birds to get photos. I have friends who are very much into photographing birds, and all of them treat the birds with the respect they deserve. I am grateful for them.

We spent the night camping at the lovely Gagudju Lodge in Cooinda in Kakadu. It is beautiful there, but the mozzies are ridiculous. It is a long-standing joke that mosquitoes don’t bother me and it is true. They do not. But this was craziness. I even itched (for about an hour, then the bites went away). Anyway, there were too damn many mozzies for either of us. We did see a Barking Owl. We had heard them in a few places, but needed to see one for the year list. Lynn came down from Troopi's pop top and saw the owl in her jammies (how it got in her pajamas I have no idea... thank you, Groucho). Using the dim light of my flashlight, I was able to grab a recording shot. Then we left the next morning before dawn and headed to Gubara Pools.
   

Barking Owl

It is at least a 6 kilometer walk round trip to the rainforest area and the pools. We went there with one main target... Banded Fruit-dove. Again, our friend Laurie had been out there recently and had seen several. Our friend, Robert had been out there just a few days ago and had seen some as well. This would be a lifer for me. But not for Lynn. In 2012, when we had spent a few days birding up here, Lynn had been the only one of us to spot the Banded Fruit-dove that appeared high in the canopy and then quickly disappeared. Yet she hiked all the way out there with me, even with a sore tailbone. I am grateful.
   

We started down the walk at 7:15 and arrived at the Gubarra pools about an hour later. It was a quiet hike out, without many birds. We made our way along the creek to the larger pool at the end and began looking. I went a bit further along the edge of the pool and keep searching through the trees around it. And then I got to say, “I’ve got them. Two of them!” Lynn was soon on them from her vantage point, but I had them straight on from where I was standing. Sweet! I am so very grateful.
         

Banded Fruit-dove! YES

Another one

My Lifer Selfie for Banded Fruit-dove! That is the pool behind us.

Heading out. We had been there and seen the doves (there are no crocs).

The walk back was much hotter and we neither heard, nor saw, any White-lined Honeyeaters, or Chestnut-quilled Rock-pigeons (neither are life birds, but we want them on the year list). So we are staying the night in Jabiru and giving the area of the Nourlangi Rock a look in the morning. Right now I am relaxing in more comfort than I can afford, and I just had Lifer Pie in the form of ice cream on a stick. I am so grateful. I will keep you posted.

RB Life List: 645
Lynn Life List: 624
Couple’s Year List: 604

Peace. Love. Birds.

Lifer Do-Over and Over 600 Birds

Top End ~ Part Three

I came up with the phrase, “Lifer Do-Over” in the 1 March 2016 Blog. A Lifer Do-Over is getting a second, more conclusive look at a life bird. Wanting this second look means I am questioning the original tick. Something that I do not want to do. While I might be pretty sure, I am not positive. And I do want to be positive!

Several days ago, Lynn and I saw a very pale, streaky headed Cisticola at Fogg Dam. Lynn also had heard the distinctive call from among the reeds in the vicinity of where we saw it. But did she “see” that bird make the call? No, she did not. Therefore, we had doubts. Granted, Cisticolas are one of the hardest identifications in Australia. They are right up there with Swinhoe’s vs Pintail Snipes (yes, we finally did get a photo of the tail feathers. We got Swinhoe’s Snipe in Broome). So, although we had Zitting on our eBird list that day at Fogg Dam, we wanted another look for our life lists.

Over the following days, we tried in multiple places for Zitting without success. We saw a few suspects, but nothing conclusive. We saw some lovely birds though, and here are a few of them.
     

White-bellied Sea-eagle

Crimson Finch

Australasian Darter

Orange-footed Scrubfowl

Rufous-banded Honeyeater

Black-necked Stork

Wandering Whistling-ducks

Arafura Fantail

Then on Sunday (Mother’s Day) we went birding with our new friend, Laurie Ross. We went to the flood plains area of Holmes Jungle Nature Reserve. At the bottom of the hill, Lynn and Laurie heard one. We did not locate it and we continued birding the grasses along the road. We saw other Cisticolas, but every really good view looked like Golden-headed and we did not hear any Zitting calling. After about an hour we had worked our way back to the original spot where they had heard the call and yes, they (and even I) heard it! AND this time we saw the Zitting Cisticola perched up on the grass and calling. Seen and heard, finally! It was pretty far, but three of us were on it with eyes (binoculars) and ears. Then it flitted off into the thick jungle of grasses not to be seen again. But we got it! As Laurie said, “One hundred percent tick.” I am really, really grateful.
      

Looking down on the flood plains at Holme's Jungle Nature Reserve. There be Zitting Cisticolas down there!

Lifer high ensued and we took our time hiking back up to the vehicles. We had had to park on the main road since the reserve doesn’t open until 8am and we had arrived at 6:30am. Then in Troopi’s air-conditioned comfort, we headed into town. We were going to the Darwin Botanical Gardens where we had a slim hope that we might find a Rufous Owl. Several days ago, Lynn, Robert, Edith and I had tromped and slogged for several hours through a swampy area in Palmerston that had recently had a Rufous Owl. We saw not hide, nor feather of one.

So we were not really that optimistic when we walked into the Botanical Gardens. Then we checked the “book” of recent bird sightings and YES, a Rufous Owl had been seen there only four days ago! With our hopes higher, we hurried down the Rainforest Boardwalk. As we walked into the shadows, Laurie told us that we were now in the area for seeing them, and about where they had been reported in the book. He was saying they often roost low, just as I was looking up behind us and saying, “It’s higher than you think.” Yes, I was looking at a Rufous Owl. I am so very grateful. What an awesome bird.
    

Rufous Owl!

Yes, owls are raptors. They have very serious claws.

The bird called a couple of times and when it did, the sun light shone through its throat giving a very bizarre appearance as if a light was switching on inside the owl.

I also want to mention that on 5 May at Fogg Dam Lynn saw her lifer Rose-crowned Fruit-dove and that bird put our “Couple’s Year List” at 600 (and now with the Rufous Owl, 601). Since our beginning date was dictated by our return to Oz last August, our “year” had to start on 20 August 2015 and it will run through midnight 19 August 2016. We will see how we go. Whatever the numbers are, I am so grateful for this opportunity!

Very crap photo BUT it is a recording shot of our 600th Couple's Year List bird. Rose-crowned Fruit-dove!

Peace. Love. Birds.

Top End ~ Part Two

We are enjoying the hospitality of my Yabok, Denise Lawungkurr Goodfellow. She is my much respected elder sister since my adoption into the Ngalanbali clan of the Kunwinjku people by my mummah, Una Thompson. This is an honor that I cherish and take very seriously. I am very grateful to be accepted into this wonderful family.

We are staying in Denise and Michael’s guest chalet (as a little cabin, or cottage is called out here) on their large property in the Darwin River area. It is truly bush-cool. It has an “Out of Africa” vibe to it that is awesome. It is hot and humid up here, but after the weeks in Broome, we have acclimated a bit to the heat. I am grateful and I am loving it!
   

Troopi just being a 'vehicle' while we are staying in the chalet.

I am sitting at that table writing this right now. I am grateful.

We have seen some cool birds too. On our way out Sunday morning, Lynn and I got our Lifer Partridge Pigeon. It was early and I got no photos. On our way home that evening after a massive downpour, we saw the world’s wettest, living Partridge Pigeon at the same spot. Then later the next day, Robert spotted one up the road and I got some photos of a beautiful, dry Partridge Pigeon. They are currently my favorite pigeon and I am very grateful!

The world's wettest, living Partridge Pigeon. Honestly, at first I was afraid it had drowned.

A dry Partridge Pigeon... just beautiful.

After our initial sighting of the Pigeon, we headed on to the Shoal Bay Waste Management Facility where there had been a Franklin’s Gull hanging about. After making friends with the nice guy who was the “gatekeeper,” we were basically being told on the phone to “f-off and leave” by his supervisor. Being able to be an asshole and still sound totally bland and disinterested is, I suppose, an asset for a person in a supervisory position.

However, the gatekeeper was cool and let us scope the tip-face from a grassy area by the gate. We had a clear view and the gull was not there. Sneaking in later in the afternoon was also unsuccessful (long story, with a blah ending, so I will skip it). Then believe it or not, I thought I might have dropped my iPhone case there that morning so we had to go back! This time, a guy who worked there recognized me and they just allowed us to go in! We had full access, but sadly the gull was still nowhere to be seen. Not at the ponds in the back, nor on the tip-face. I am very tired of this gull for now. But I am grateful that I found my Swaro iPhone case right where I thought I might have dropped it!

Monday morning we headed out about 50 minutes from here on the Arnhem Highway to the Adelaide River Crossing. It is known as a good birding spot (thank you Tim Dolby). In about twenty minutes, Lynn and I had two Arafura Fantails in the trees above us. Sweet! And a Lifer! We also added Mangrove Golden Whistler to the year list there. It was vocal as, but remained frustratingly un-photographable. That’s very much ok though and I am grateful.

Arafura Fantail looking at us as we were looking at him (or her).

Next we stopped by for a quick visit to Fogg Dam. We first went there in August of 2012. It is a wonderful birding area, but seemed a bit slow and it was quite buggy. We did pick up Rufous-banded Honeyeater for the year list and saw a lovely little Grey (brown) Whistler before the mozzies just about carried us away. For the most part mosquitoes do not bother me, but these were ridiculous. It seems they are quite bad up here in general this time of year, but we can deal with them.

Grey Whistler (brown) they are lovely, understated little birds.

Now we’re mostly caught up. We dipped on everything that we were looking for today. We did have some gorgeous Chestnut-breasted Mannikins, but not a single Yellow-rumped amongst them. Trust me we looked very hard for them.

Beautiful birds... but man, would I love to finally find a Yellow-rumped!

Now I am sitting in our little hut and working on this blog and the photos. I am so lucky to be sitting here and doing this. And I am deeply grateful. I wish you all joy with all my heart and I will keep you posted! Stay tuned there is much more to come...

Peace. Love. Birds.

Top End ~ Part One

Catching up the blog is more difficult than I want it to be. I will continue, but I am skipping a lot of things that I would love to share. There is just not enough time to do the things and write about them (and edit the dang pictures). Anyway… let’s catch up as best I can.

In our birding of Oz, Lynn and I had had no joy of any Button-quail. Very many people have told us how easy Painted Button-quail are! Just go to this place or that place, but that is usually always after we are 500 kilometers away from those places. We have looked twice up around Deniliquin, NSW for the Little Button-quail without success. We went specifically to Inskip Point for the Black-breasted, but it happened to be the first weekend of school holidays last September and it was utter insanity of screaming kids, bellowing adults and roaring-rumbling 4WDs. We saw neither hide nor hair of any Button-quail. I plan to return this winter and try again!

I would recommend Mike Reed’s wonderful book, “Top End Birdwatching” to any birder coming up here. It is an excellent book. Robert and Edith (a friend of Robert’s and ours as well now) and Lynn and I went by to say, “hi,” to Mike and his wife, Anne. They are awesome people, who I would love to have had more time with. He advised us on a good spot for Chestnut-backed Button-quail. So… sort of bright and definitely early, we headed Troopi and Troopy out of Katherine toward Chinaman Creek. We went to the exact spot that he suggested and we did as he advised. Lynn, Edith, Robert and I walked “grids” to and fro through the grassy area where the Button-quail are known to be. We flushed them four times, getting excellent binocular views as they relocated (i.e. flew and disappeared into the grasses). Tick! I am SO grateful! Finally!

We moved on to Pine Creek and as most birders know, the Hooded Parrots are seen in front of the caravan parks there. They were indeed and they did not disappoint! They are now on our year list.
   

Hooded Parrots

Sloppy Parrot kisses...

We headed north to a spot that Mike suggested as possible for Yellow-rumped Mannakin (still no joy of those!). Once again, we did not find them. Although we saw a very Zitting looking cisticila, but I reckon it was a Golden-headed.

Cisticola

On the way back to Pine Creek, we decided to make a detour to Douglas River Crossing by Douglas Daly Caravan Park. I had read on Facebook that our friend, Phil Lewis had seen several cool birds around there including Rainbow Pitta. It was way past any sort “bird o’clock” being about noon when we arrived. We parked near the river and began to look around. I headed down along the water and in moments I got to say, “I’ve got the pitta!” The others were in further, but came running. Soon everyone had gotten satisfying looks at one of the most beautiful birds in the world. I am so grateful!
 

Rainbow Pitta!

Yes, we had Lifer Pie in several forms and we had a lovely Lifer Supper the other night with fresh barramundi. More soonish. Sending much love from the Top End.

Peace. Love. Birds.

The Kimberley ~ Part Two

I am beginning this in a camping spot at the very cool Ellenbrae Station just off the Gibb. This place has an awesome vibe to it, rustic coolness. Hard to describe. 

Lynn at a table in Ellenbrae Station. I love that place.

I’ve had yet another shower. Yay! It has been over a month since I showered with hot, or even warm water. It has been just the cold tap since we’ve been up here, and it feels great. I am grateful.

The amenities at Ellenbrae Station... rocky cool!

Saturday the 16th was a slow birding day, but a high learning curve day for driving Troopi over rocks, ruts and holes down “tracks.” She is amazing. We made a semi-bush camp at the closed campground on Mt. Elizabeth Station. 

The following morning we had to decide where we were going. This choice had been coming. We knew where we wanted to go, to the Mitchell Plateau in hopes of the Black Grasswren, but the road up to the plateau had been closed. We had just found out that it was still closed. So, without going into the details, I will just say that after an arduous, rough and rattling drive, we birded on the evening of the 17th. We got Buff-sided Robin and Kimberley Honeyeater and we got them on the Mitchell Plateau. I was very grateful, but we had not seen the grasswren... yet.

Buff-sided Robin

Kimberley Honeyeater

The next morning we were out at first light and across on the rocky escarpment near Little Mertens Falls where these grasswrens are sometimes seen. We had an insanely cute Monjon watching us curiously from the rocks. They are an endemic of far northwest Kimberley and they are the smallest of the Rock-wallabies.
       

Monjon... a very cool little bundle of cute.

While searching hard for the Black Grasswren, we picked up Green-backed Gerygone, another lifer for Lynn and me.

Green-backed Gerygone

We headed off the trail and really began clambering over, between, across and around boulders. Or as George refers to it, “rock hopping.” This activity favors the long of leg, but Lynn hung in there with us on this very difficult terrain. I am so grateful. A check of her Fitbit showed that we traveled (climbed, clamored, stumbled) about 3 kilometers in total.

Little Mertens Falls (Lynn is in the photo, you just have to look hard).

We emerged from the boulders into a sort of clearing. Lynn took this opportunity to sit down on a rock, and I stepped off to the side behind a boulder (I had drunk my normal two mugs of coffee earlier). And at that moment, George found the grasswrens. Needless to say, I immediately stopped what I was doing and in seconds Lynn and I were standing beside him looking at two females and a male. The Black Grasswren is one of the most beautiful birds I have ever seen. It truly is. I was able to grab a few photos and then we let them be. They had shown themselves beautifully and owed us nothing more. All that we had gone through to be there was so very much worth it. What a bird. What a place. I am grateful.

The little clearing... that boulder in the center back is where they first showed.

Black Grasswren! (male)

Black Grasswren female

The male again, from the right angle they do look black.

We left this wondrous place and drove back down the amazingly rutted, horribly corrugated, mud-hole filled track. After once again safely crossing it, we stopped and had a luxurious swim in the King Edward River.

Troopi making us proud! Crossing the King Edward River (again). Thank you, George for taking our photo!

Lynn coming back from a swim.

Our swimming rock... a lovely place to slip into the river!

We headed to Drysdale Station. They had showers, as I mentioned at the end of Part One. It was a lovely evening, and a very lovely shower! What a day that was! Black Grasswren, I am so very grateful!

The next morning we went to Miner’s Pool just north of the station and saw Purple-crowned Fairy-wrens again. The males were more in color than the ones we saw a couple of days ago. What gorgeous birds they are! 

Purple-crowned Fairy-wren. We have now seen all of the Fairy-wrens. I love them.

On our way back to the main road, we stopped at the Gibb River crossing and gave Troopi a wash (no soap, just a good rinse).

Lynn was washing on the other side... our girl had gotten very muddy!

Then we reluctantly parted company and George headed west on the Gibb and we headed east. He taught us what Troopi can do and gave us the confidence to travel on and explore some of the more wild parts of Oz. He also showed us real bush-camping. Yes, we can do it, and we will do it again. Thank you, George, I am grateful.


Peace. Love. Birds.

The Kimberley ~ Part One

26 Years Sober.

At our bush-camp on a ridiculously idyllic, wilderness riverside in The Kimberley, a Huntsman Spider the size of a child’s hand was hiding in my boot the other morning. I had slipped the boots on my bare feet and somehow I walked around sharing the boot with the spider for about five minutes. Seemingly it suffered no ill affects, but then it bit me. I suffered no ill affects either (it did sting a bit). It was an amazing way on 16 April 2016 to begin to my 26th year of sobriety. That this once massively addicted alcoholic (who was also agoraphobic) is now twenty-six years sober and out in the utter wilderness, and loving it, is just about unbelievable. Hell, it is unbelievable, but believe it. And I am grateful.

We entered the Kimberley on Thursday, 14 April and before we made our first camp, we had Sandstone Shrike-thrush. Tick!

Sandstone Shrike-thrush

We were exploring a bit of this amazing wilderness with our new friend, George Swann. Thank you, Nigel, for introducing us! George knows The Kimberley better than anyone, and we are incredibly fortunate that it worked out for him to accompany us on a little birding trek across this amazingly wild part of Oz.

We made our first bush-camp somewhere out amongst it well off the famous Gibb River Road. It was a gorgeous evening (no humidity!). It was mostly clear and we ended up setting our scopes up to look at the sky. We saw planets! I saw the moons of Jupiter and the rings of Saturn! Just wow. That is an experience I will never forget. I am so grateful.
     

George and Lynn heading back toward our first bush-camp.

We began the next day birding around the dams near where we had bush-camped. Then we headed off bright and early along the Gibb and over the course of the day we picked up seven Life Birds! I will let the photos below mostly tell the tale.
     

Northern Rosella

Pictorella Mannakin

Silver-backed Butcherbird recording shot, sort of

Lynn on the rocks

The view directly in front of Lynn where a White-quilled Rock-pigeon hopped up on that rock. It then flew to our left where I made its photo. We were doing a bit of "rock hopping" here. More about that in part two.

 

The lovely White-quilled Rock-pigeon

We headed away from the rocks to find three more lovely life birds.

     

Purple-crowned Fairy-wrens! We have now seen all of the Fairy-wrens. I love them all. We saw more Purple-crowns later in the week and I will have a few more photos of them in the next blog.

Banded Honeyeater. We had looked for them around Broome with no joy. We saw lots of them in the Kimberley, but this was our first little group.

The absolutely beautiful Varied Lorikeet. I just did not expect them to be that beautiful.

The day ended with the lovely camp mentioned in the first paragraph. Lynn even went down the river that night (the moon-brightness here is amazing) and had a wash-up on a big flat rock. She is far more comfortable going bush than anyone would have imagined. I am grateful.

As usual, these blogs are being written in bits and pieces over several days. I am in fact writing this part on Monday 18 April. We are exhausted and exhilarated, thrilled and dazed. I will go into more of that in Part Two, but now I am going to take an actual shower! I am oh, so grateful!

Stay tuned for Part Two and the quest for the Black Grasswren!

Birds. Peace. Love.

Broome Bird Observatory ~ Part Four

We have been at BBO for far longer than we expected, but it has been a wonderful stay. We are leaving in just a couple of days. The birding has slowed down, as it must. We have seen most everything we could reasonably hope for and more. We have wonderful new friends in Nigel and Jaime, and in Graffy and Dave. The tribe expands. My US bird friends would effortlessly dovetail into these wonderful Aussie bird friends. I am so grateful for this place, these people and this whole opportunity to explore and bird so much of Oz.

To catch up… we haven’t been doing all that much. Lynn and I chased Roseate Terns earlier last week and with two visits to their roost, we got them. And by we I mean, Lynn. We were at Willie Creek (there is a pearl farm there, no we did not buy any pearls). I was scoping through the scores of terns as best I could across a couple of hundred meters of water. Then Lynn had one fly up and out toward us, I missed it, but she had cracking views of a flying Roseate. I continued with the scope and got some long distance views as well and I was and am, grateful.
   

This digi-scoped photo looks as if it were drawn by a child with pastels, but that one in the middle with the long bill is a Roseate Tern (I think).

On Sunday, I walked the soles off my Keen sandals (literally, they are wrecked) as Nigel and Dave and I walked about a kilometer to view the other point at Willie Creek. Unfortunately, the flock that Lynn and I had seen, which was almost all Roseates and Commons, was not there and we saw no Roseates, but we had a nice walk in the 40+ degree heat along the shade-less beach (there was an excellent breeze though). And to get within a kilometer of the point, Troopi rolled us through some ridiculously deep, soft sand and some big holes. My confidence in my girl builds. I am very grateful.
   

They have gone a lot of miles, but they are now done. They did get me back to Troopi.

Dave and Nigel at the beginning of the long walk to the point.

A White-winged Black Tern gliding over a few of the others at the point. The large flock of common-type terns that Lynn and I had seen was evidently elsewhere.

And then, Monday was a surprise boat trip! Nigel asked us if we wanted to go out on a fishing boat that we could bird from as well. It was a beautiful boat, a much more comfortable boat than on any pelagic I have done (Brian’s big boat in Hatteras is quite comfy, but this was broader with much more seating in the shade). We left from the beach. There’s a little amphibious boat that drives up onto the beach to collect everyone. It was very cool.
     

The little amphibious boat is to their left and the boat we are going on is to their right.

About an hour offshore, almost the first bird we spotted was the Streaked Shearwater that we were hoping for. It had been a nemesis bird for Nigel, and it would be a lifer for Lynn and me. We ended up seeing a lot of them. Tick! I am grateful. I also had proper looks at Roseate Terns (finally). All in all it was a very comfortable, enjoyable day. The seas were also ridiculously calm. We saw quite a few turtles (Loggerheads I believe) and sea snakes as well as the occasional pods of dolphin.

Heading out...

Streaked Shearwater

Mackerel Tuna feeding on the surface (there's one jumping out of the water on the right).

Roseate Tern in the middle there.

Roseate Tern going by the boat (photo: Nigel Jackett)

   

Sea Snake (do not know what kind).

Hutton's Shearwater

Streaked Shearwater Lifer Selfie for Lynn, Nigel and me.

There were about a dozen fishing persons, all bottom-fishing with bait and catching a fish now and then. Since the birding was slow, I asked if I could use the rod with a jig on it for a bit and see what happened. They said I could (I had not paid to fish, so it was nice of them- I also told them if I caught anything, the boat could keep it). I caught three fish! The fish in the photo is a Blue Lined Emperor. Evidently I can still work a jig right well. That really was fun. It had been a very long time since I caught a fish. This was my first fish in the Indian Ocean and come to think of it, in the southern hemisphere period. I am grateful.
     

The Old Man and the Sea back in his element.

Lots coming up, stay tuned I will keep y’all posted! Sending good vibes to all from northwestern Western Australia.

Birds. Peace. Love.